Nice stuff, wood and size. I’m just bit surprised you vernish it before drawing the lines?
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I tested a bit on scrap and if I don’t, the marker will probably bleed into the grain, making fuzzy lines.
Here’s the finished 13x13, with two more coats over the marker:
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Still offering?
Not if you use the right markers. When (late 90s) I made a board, I foresaw this problem. I asked the people in the art shop what marker would not go fuzzy if I varnished the board. I think that I was advised a water-resistent marker. So if you explain what your plans are (varnish is not the only option; oiling, waxing are other options) an art shop can advise you on this.
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I did 1 coat polyurethane, marker, then 2 more coats polyurethane, and the coatings did not make the marker lines go fuzzy. They get fuzzy if drawn onto raw uncoated wood, since the ink soaks into the grain.
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Next time I get into some decent sized wood I’ll take some pictures and we can discuss.
I continue to be amazed by the unbelievably tedious process involved in cutting the lines. Seems like something that could get so frustrating, yet at the same time be very satisfying.
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I’m posting this from my phone, so forgive any lack of finesse. Here are the main concerns I have, and I’m no woodworking expert by any means. The wood can dry and crack very easily if not heat treated or kiln dried. Without doing any legwork I honestly couldn’t tell you what it would take to ship something like this, around 100 lbs. But, let me know what you think… the first and last picture is just a little showing and telling about the amount of wood I have access to. Lots of this is populus (cottonwood, Aspen, popular) and not a hard wood used for wood working, but the middle picture of the slabs are ash, which is a very hard wood… Anyways:
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K, in an practical frame of mind (mainly because i gave to redraw all the cad cant frames on the frigate i am building and that will take ages) so i have decided to build another goban but with process improvements to avoid some of the pitfalls of my original approach.
That board is fine but i can do better.
Structure will be as before strips joined together but this time with a base. I will keep with the beech and black walnut though as i like the colour. I will also use japanese measurements for this whereas my original used the chinese (for my chinese stones).
Admittedly i will need some japanese stones to use the board.
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Sightly off topic but I thought some people who are building Go boards might like to see the trophy for the Newcastle tournament…
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Which monster made it 10x10 
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Yeah, I was wondering what would make it more unplayable for me: the lack of Tengen or the text (which could just as well have been printed on one of the sides).
But OK, hobbyists, and maybe the 3D person wasn’t much into Go and its aesthetics … so I’d keep my mouth shut if I’d be there.
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Ok it’s a trophy but… I find frustrating to not have written on the side instead at the middle of the board.
As a cleaning people would say, gonna be just a dust collector
Don’t get it wrong, still a wonderful object.
But easier to clean than most intricate trophies right?!
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If they made it 9x9 or even 11x11 it would probably actually get used, and thus would need minimal dusting. As it is, probably not many people are so interested in 10x10.
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We haven’t yet debated about the size of the stones.
The wood light color looks great. For transportation I have no idea, I can just say that usually it takes the low cost (so slow) way.
Any news?