My personal preference on clock is long main time and byo-yomi, something like 60 minutes+3-5x1minute.
30 seconds byo-yomi is really scary to me, I typically just use the last 10 second to place stone.
my own experience is also, this is also commented by pro, long main time is just to ease pressure, and does not necessarily cause the long game times. The reason is once we enter byo-yomi, we tend to use all of the time allocated even when we have decided the next move. we are taking time to think others. This is also true that I tend not to resign in byo-yomi cause i don’t have time to count to confirm i am hopeless. I have been playing quite some tournament games this year with 45-60 minutes main time, most of the time, I used 30-35 minutes before the games ended.
However, I’ve been play live games only this year and am ok with any time settings. Just want to share some of my thoughts.
No canadian byo-yomi please, that seems to be very confusing. I played only one game and thought I was right on time, then lost the game by time out. Only then I realized I was supposed to make 10 moves instead of 1 within that time frame. lol
If difference of ranks = 0, 1, 2 or 3 : no handicap.
If difference of ranks = 4, handicap 1 stone.
If difference of ranks = 5, handicap 2 stones.
…
If difference of ranks = 12, handicap 9 stones.
If difference of ranks = 13 or more, handicap 9 stones.
Isn’t stone better understood/played than reverse komi as black? At least from the beginning, you feel the advantage?
When I play 0.5 komi on either side, I don’t know any difference and play no differently. Interestingly I was watching a game between a top Chinese amateur player and a 7P with .5 komi. The amateur controlled the game from the beginning. The 7P commented if they play even games, he would win 90% of the time.
For me, it’s stones that I have to take into consideration without having actually having thought out and placed them. It feels more complicated, even though it looks like an advantage.
With “score handicap” I play as usual and I just have extra points for help. I still lose, just by less .
If you want to maintain an advantage for the stronger player, then you would need less than 2 * komi per rank. Don’t forget to add komi (7 in NZD) back in for White at the end regardless of ranks, as well.
First the OGS rating to rank conversion formula from the new ranking update is used to convert the player’s overall OGS rating to a rank, which is then multiplied by 14 (subject to change if this proves to be too high as Sensei’s implies) to convert to points rating. This is performed anew each round to maintain correspondence with OGS ratings. Each player has a “rating offset” which is persistent between rounds and increases by one for each win, decreases by one for each loss, and can be manually adjusted by request (subject to approval). Before pairings are made and reverse komi values generated, the points rating and rating offset are added together.
I appreciate that Lagrange was centred on reverse komi, but I’m not running a system like that simply to provide handicap as an auxiliary tool.
If that’s how reverse komi has to be then I’d rather use handicap stones.
That’s only 9 points short of what would be estimated for komi 7 games, and 0 points short of what would be estimated for 6.5 komi games, rounding to the nearest point. Not bad.
I could be wrong but that’s how I understand the formula in use by Samraku, and it doesn’t seem so complicated.
//Edit: I have no problem with normal handicap either, or free placement.
Or how about free placement and additionally the weaker player may trade handicap stones for reverse komi, just to give them even more options before the game even starts
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